Italy recommendations from my travels throughout our "bel paese"over the past 10 years❤️❤️🇮🇹
Includes Rome, Firenze, Siena, Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi coast, Positano, Napoli, Umbria, Toscana, & Venezia. Individual posts for other towns & regions to follow.
Sunset on the Arno river from the Ponte Trinità, FirenzeWelcome to my blog of Italy. I first started documenting my travels when friends and neighbors began asking for my recommendations for traveling to Italy. I have spent about 20% of the last 10 years traveling Italy, discovering new areas and living life as an Italian. So after years of sending out information and helping people plan their trips I decided to put a lot of it together in a blog format. I will continuously update the blog as I study Italy almost everyday of my life. I talk with my family and friends in Italy each day, catching up on gossip, discussing places to visit and of course food. I have organized the information according to the different regions. So here goes…
First thing I want to mention is that I have found Waze to be the best GPS in Italy. A lot of the Hertz rentals now have the link where your phone’s Waze will appear on the screen which makes it even easier. I have used 4 or 5 different GPS’s in Italy over the years and find Waze pretty much knows where it is going. I have also found that Hertz is the best way to go as far as reliable rentals in Italy. There are cheaper agencies but Hertz is by far the most reliable. If you let me where you will rent your car(s) I can recommend which Hertz office to go to. Of course many of your destinations can be easily reached by train as the Italian train system is amazing. We go EVERYWHERE by train. Plus you don’t drive in the larger cities, you walk everywhere. One more thing ...in the car we listen to cento due cinque (102.5) exclusively in Italia on the radio. It is really fun and they play a great mix including lots of popular songs from the USA. And you can get 102.5 anywhere you are in Italia…check it out.
You will be doing plenty of walking. In Italy you walk everywhere which keeps you in great shape so you can enjoy all the wonderful food and wine. All of Italy has great places to discover on foot!
When traveling to Italy I always recommend arriving and departing in Rome (Fiumicino) and going from there. If you have any questions regarding rates and carriers let me know (we prefer Air France, we used to fly British but always got stuck at Heathrow, ITA does fly one plane a day nonstop form LAX to Rome which is nice). You can easily reach any region from Rome by Trenitalia trains (travel Business Class on the high speed trains as it is really nice), plane or by renting at Hertz.
I love driving in Italy and find it allows you to take your time and discover new places. Be careful because Italy has speed traps on most of the roads and the autostrada. One thing is that they will normally warn you when you are entering a speed trap but you will not know that you got a ticket until you receive it in the mail 9 months to a year later. I now have a car in Rome but before I would always rent from Hertz. It is not that expensive and I find that the weekly rates are cheaper even if you return the car a day or two early. Be sure and get your International driver’s license at AAA because you will need it. It is good for 1 year. If you use your Visa to pay for car rental, insurance is usually included so you can waive the expensive Hertz insurance. If you have an Amex Platinum you are automatic Gold Members and can book online with good rates. HOWEVER, if you do book with an Amex when you arrive at the Hertz pay with your Visa, not the Amex. Amex does not offer auto insurance in Italy but Visa will cover your car. I have never had an issue at Hertz when I ask them to charge my Visa and not my Amex. Sometimes certain Hertz offices will pre-charge your Amex (in Milan for example) but when you arrive ask them to switch and they will. I also always have travel insurance from Allianz. They offer numerous programs but I get the yearly program as it includes my car insurance, emergency medical services and does not insure your hotel reservations which you don’t really need in Italy because everywhere you stay they SELDOM charge you up front and there is seldom a cancellation charge. You can also get trip insurance that will cover your flights if you like.
You can rent a car at Hertz Fiumicino or later on in Rome. The Hertz in Rome that I have used in the past and is very reliable is located near the Vatican.
If you need pointers on how to setup you cellphone please let me know. If you are staying for an extended length of time you might find it best to simply go to the local Vodafone in Italy and change out the SIM in your phone. If you have a newer model phone that has an eSIM the change is even easier. With an eSIM, you simply open an account, pay the startup fee, they assign an eSIM to your phone and then under iPhone Settings you choose that number as the primary number (your Italian phone number starts with a +39). When you leave Italy you tell Vodafone what day to stop your service and then you switch your phone back to your number in the states. If you start to run out of money in on your Vodafone account you simply stop into a Vodafone and “refill” your account or use the app to refill. I have done this for years and all you need is your passport. They may ask you for your “codice fiscale” (similar to a Social Security number) but I have found that they really don’t require it. I use iPhone but I assume Android phones are just as easily switched out. Update: Vodafone has just announced that you can order your eSim here in the states, get it setup and simply activate it on the plane ride over to Italy (no internet needed to activate the new eSim). It looks a little more expensive than going to the Vodafone dealer in Italy but might be easier and better if you are not going to be in Italy for an extended period of time. You can get more information at this link regarding their new program: Vodafone Italy. Cellphone service is much less expensive in Italy (I pay less than 1/2 half the monthly rate compared to the USA) and the coverage is great but again it might not be worth your while if you are in Italy for just a few weeks. There is also a fairly new company here in the states, Airalo, where you can setup your eSIM online before you travel to Italy and simply switch to the new number when you land, similar to the new Vodafone offer. It appears to be more expensive than switching to Vodafone in Italy but again I have not used it. You can check it out here at Airalo. You can also purchase your cellphone company’s international plan here in the states which tends to be expensive. Note to that WiFi is available almost everywhere you go in Italy. You will need to be sure you have WhatsApp installed on your phone as that is how everyone communicates in Italy. WhatsApp works great over WiFi, for both texting and calling, so that always is a plus. You can easily call back to the states free of charge using WhatsApp and WiFi as long as both phones have WhatsApp installed.
Be sure and book your hotel(s) ASAP as Italy is busy this year because of the Jubilee. Book any wine tours also and of course the flights. High speed trains are easy to book online and you can usually book a few weeks ahead of time with no worry. Intercity trains don’t need pre-booking, simply show up at the station or use the Trenitalia app. Let me know if you have any issues booking high speed trains. Be careful when choosing the train stations as it can get confusing (example Roma has multiple stations, Roma Termini being the main station). Remember also that in Italy May 20, 2025 is written 20/5/2025, not 5/20/205 as in the states.
Rome
Some of these are obvious go to’s plus some of our favorite places and trattorias where we hangout:
Colosseum (click here for tickets) - the underground tour we think is the most enjoyable, be sure and book ahead of time (you will also get a ticket to The Roman Forum if you book the Colosseum which is amazing plus you can go up to the Palatine hill). After the underground tour they release you into the Colosseum so you can walk around for as long as you like. Walk up to the Giardini Palatini and visit the garden which is especially nice when the roses are blooming. You will also have a beautiful view from the top of the hill.
Spanish Steps, Pantheon (tickets now required, can be purchased at this link, €5 each), Trevi fountain, Piazza Navona, Villa Borghese, Ponte Sant’Angelo - all must sees at some point. You can easily walk to all of these in Rome. A block up from the Pantheon you will find an All’Antico Vinaio, the world famous panini shop that started in Firenze near the Uffizi gallery. They now have dozens of shops all over Italy and the world. Just look for the line. After your panini visit Caffè Tazza d'Oro next to the Pantheon for the best granita in all of Rome (my opinion).
Vaticano. Every Wednesday Papa Leone has a general audience which you can attend. A few months ago the Vaticano opened a website where you can now order online your tickets for the general audiences and Liturgical Celebrations held by Papa Leone. The site is available in multiple languages and easy to use. You can find the site here. Please remember that these tickets are always free. Do not pay a broker for your tickets! Get them directly from the Vaticano.
You can also climb the cupola if you want to see an incredible view of Roma. You have the choice of climbing the stairs the entire way or taking an elevator half way and then the stairs the rest of the way. Be sure and stop on the roof where you can stand very near the statues of the Apostles that surround the top of the basilica. If you are interested the “Scavi tour” takes you under the main altar where St Peter’s bones are located, a small 8 person tour but must be booked way ahead of time (months ahead). Email them directly at scavi@fsp.va and ask for reservations for the tour. There is now a “for prayer only” entrance to St Peter’s with no line located on the left side of the basilica as you approach (the standard entrance is on your right). Remember that this is a Jubilee Year so there are about 700,000 extra people weekly in Rome and the Vatican so it will be busier than usual. Another wonderful Vaticano tour is the one where they take you behind the basilica to the Vaticano Gardens. It’s an amazing tour and one where you will learn a lot of history.
Best streets for clothes and shoe shopping (our opinion) are via del Corso and via Cola di Rienzo. My FAVORITE shirt shop is Assoli & Bottoni. They have several shops but I prefer the one on via del Corso. If you are on via Cola di Rienzo be sure and visit Castroni’s, THE gourmet grocery store in Rome. There are several locations but we like this one the best. Be sure and visit their candy counter. Designer high end shops such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, etc. are located just off the Spanish Steps on via dei Condotti.
Beautiful Christmas ornaments, including Christopher Radko and de Carlini pieces, can be found at Sempre Natale. Owner Paola has a nice well stocked shop. Across the street from Sempre Natale you will find Volpe, one of the oldest grocery stores in Rome. Be sure and stop in. They have an incredible selection including meat, cheeses, pasta, etc.
The Jewish Ghetto (near Campo de’Fiori) is fun with two great trattorias, the first being Sora Margherita which serves some of the best Cacio e Pepe you will find. It is very small trattoria and you may have to share a table but that is ok. Order the Cacio e Pepe and a Carciofi alla Giudia (fried artichoke) to share. Careful because if they see you are a tourist they will try to sell you up. Also order a “mezzo litro vino rosso della casa” (house red wine, 1/2 liter) and you are set. Just about every place we eat we always order either the house red or house white wine. Even if you don’t see it on the menu they usually have house wine and it is always very good. Up the street is Giggetto, famous for their fried artichokes (Carciofi alla Giudia). I have had many dishes at Giggetto and have never been disappointed. Try their fried zucchini flower. I recommend Giggetto for lunch if you want to sit outside and people watch. After lunch on the main street via del Portico d'Ottavia you will find the “secret bakery” Pasticceria Boccione, just look for the line leading into the bakery…they don’t have a huge selection so you just buy what they made for that day. Boccione is famous for their version of the Roman ricotta and dark cherry tart so try it if they have it. A five minute walk from Giggetto will take you to the oldest bridge in Rome, Ponte Fabricio, which leads to Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island). If you continue you will enter the Trastevere district of Rome which I will discuss later.
Ristorante Abruzzi, near the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II (referred to as the “Wedding Cake”) and Piazza Venezia, is great for outdoor lunch and dinner, located down a little side street and a local hangout, possibly the best Carbonara in Roma but everything they have is good. If they don’t automatically bring the green Sambuca to your table after your meal ask for it. You won’t see it at too many places and it is very tasty. It is our go to place. Great house wine also.
Up the street from Ristorante Abruzzi you will find my favorite relic in Rome, St. John the Baptist’s head. It is located in the Basilica di San Silvestro in Capite in a small side chapel. Most folks don’t even know it is there. There is also a small side door you can enter from via delle Gambero that leads into small chapel. Careful as it does close in the afternoon but reopens I believe at 4 PM.
L’Isola della Pizza (“pizza island”) is a fun place at night for outdoor dining, near the Vaticano, lots of locals, Swiss Guard, priests go there. It is a tourist hangout but still fun and the pizza is good.
Bonci’s Pizzarium is a short walk from the Vaticano and is THE place for gourmet walk up pizza taglio. Bonci is really the king of taglio pizza and known the world over. Be prepared to wait in line but it is worth it. I recently heard that on Saturday’s Bonci serves Cornetti that are cooked in chicken fat. I have no clue how this will taste but I am going to give it a try during my next visit.🐓
La Zanzara (“the mosquito”), local bar not too far from the Vaticano, great for aperitif and just to hangout, drink wine and people watch. They will bring nice little treats to the table with your drinks. It is also just a few blocks from the Ottaviano metro station which you can catch if you need to get back to the Roma Termini (main train station in Rome).
We have taken multiple cooking classes in Italy. By far the best is my good friend Letizia Mattiacci and her Madonna del Piatto cooking classes in Rome. I have learned so much from Letizia over the years and highly recommend you visit her and spend the day cooking and learning true Italian cooking. She has also written two wonderful books that have become my bibles for cooking. Visit her website for more information.
We have been to literally hundreds of churches in Rome and Italy, too many to list. Stop into any of the them that you find open…they are all unique and beautiful. Basilica di Santa Maria in Aracoeli is a favorite reached by climbing 100+ steps (located near the Wedding Cake), Basilica Maria Maggiore near the Roma termini is amazing (Bernini is buried here), Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, etc., etc. Here is a separate blog I wrote that only covers churches: Notes on churches and interesting relics, etc., in and around Rome, Italy
One of my all time favorite churches is Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi near piazza Navona, where you will find the Caravaggio’s. When you enter the church head towards the altar and then look to your left where all the people will be standing. Truly amazing especially if you love Caravaggio as I do.
Pontificio Santuario della Scala Santa, the “holy steps” that Jesus climbed, can be climbed on your knees and is truly an amazing experience. The steps are located near the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano which is worth a trip in itself. Laterano used to be the cathedral of Rome and the residence of the Pope and you will find amazing statues of the apostles here plus a portion of the Last Supper table is located in a side chapel on your left.
The Trastevere region of Rome is a hangout for the younger tourist crowd and very lively. We don’t normally go there because it is just too crowded and full of trattorias that are not that great but if you are across the Tiber at night it is worth a visit. Bar San Calisto (a VERY famous bar) is where ALL the young crowd goes and is fun but again chaotic. Grab a table and get an aperitif…great spot for people watching!
We never stay in the city of Rome but if you want to here are a couple of nice spots:
The Major - near the main train station (Roma Termini), my cousins stayed here in May 2024 and loved it…beautiful rooftop.
Hotel Bramante - very near the Vatican, my friend Mountain likes this hotel.
Atlante Star Hotel - again near the Vatican, good location and nice place.
Singer Palace Hotel Roma - very near the Trevi fountain, at one time was the world headquarters for Singer Sewing Machines. A Five star hotel and it deserves the rating…very nice rooftop bar, my cousins stayed here last November and enjoyed it.
Hotel Adriano - nice location near Piazza Navona, my cousin used to work at this hotel.
If you are staying in Rome take a short train ride north to Ladispoli, our home away from home. Ladispoli has wonderful shopping, trattorias, and a beautiful black beach…and no tourists. I Spettagolosi is one of our favorite trattorias, where chef/owner Andrea is amazing. Andrea’s mom Anna and sister Stefania are wonderful hosts and I am sure you will enjoy it. Another fine trattoria just a few minutes from Ladispoli is Il Tegame Osteria Livornese. Manuella is the owner and serves some very unique dishes. Another spot which opened a few years ago is Moment which serves some excellent sushi. In Ladispoli you can find great street food including DoppioZero for pizza teglia and a place called Streat Food (they do a salmon Piadina that I like and also great supplì). Up the street from Streat Food you will find La Catina de Andrea which is a great spot to sit outside and enjoy “affettati” antipasti and aperitif. Summer time in Ladispoli is amazing. Rent a few chairs on the sea and relax. Visit Malecon Beach Bar and enjoy a Spritz while sitting on the beach. And of course enjoy a gelato at Ping Pong right there in the middle of town.🍦 Our go to jewelry shop is The Coral Shop. Ladispoli is filled with wonderful shops specializing in bread (try Forno di aronica Cristina for bread, pizza bianca, cookies and crostata), meat, clothes, etc. and a great Central Bar to enjoy your morning caffè. Some of our favorite clothing shops include Tata (shoes), Tezenis (women’s clothing), Crea (women’s clothing), Primadonna (women’s clothing), etc. Fedeli 1950 luxury clothing is also here in Ladispoli but I usually shop at their flagship store in Bracciano (see the town of Bracciano discussed below). If you simply walk up and down the main street of vialle Italia you will find wonderful shops for just about everything. Visit the mercato located across the street from Antica Pizzeria in the morning for fresh vegetables, fruit, meat, cheese and fish everyday except Sunday. Antica Pizzeria is also a great spot in the evening to get several different types of roasted chicken to go. Ladispoli is really a wonderful town in which to enjoy “Italian life”…I miss it every day.
Anguillara Sabazia is just a short 1 hour drive from Rome and a beautiful town. Walk along lake Lago di Bracciano and enjoy a gelato at Bar Del Molo Gelateria Artigianale made famous from the “Everybody Loves Raymond” Italy episodes filmed there. Chalet del Lago is probably one of our top 5 ristoranti in all of Italy and located right on the lake. Diego is the owner and is constantly adding new and creative dishes to his menu. Plus they proudly serve our wine from Cantine Ferri!🍷🍷
There are several nice beach areas (Blue Banner Beach being one of several) along the lake, one in front of La Casina Bianca which is a nice indoor/outdoor trattoria serving simple local dishes in a nice setting.
Across the lake from Anguillara Sabazia you will find the lovely town of Bracciano. Walk the streets and be sure and visit Castello Orsini-Odescalchi which offers a beautiful view of the lake and is well known for being the location of Tom Cruise and Katie Holme’s wedding. In Bracciano you will also find Fedeli which is one of the finest men’s and women’s clothing shops in Rome (again, my opinion). At last count I have 4 suits, shirts, shoes, a ski jacket, etc., that I’ve purchased from Fideli and I love them. Be sure and ask for Tonich…he is usually always there. Link to the Fideli website is here.
Beautiful Piazza Saminiati in Bracciano Ceri is a short 45 minute drive from Rome and a really unique town. Perched on the top of a hill, Ceri has only a single-car wide road leading up and back. It features a beautiful little church and Trattoria la Rocca where you can enjoy an amazing lunch or dinner with panoramic views of the valley below.
Cerveteri is a lovely town just north of Ladispoli, famous for its Etruscan museum Museo archeologico nazionale Cerite featuring a collection of Etruscan pieces found in the area. You can also visit the Necropoli della Banditaccia and walk among the thousands of tombs some with painted frescos.
Tarquinia is about an hours drive north of Rome and famous for its underground Necropoli. Visit these amazing tombs located underground, many decorated with beautiful frescos.
Villa d’Este is also a nice day trip from Rome. You can take the train from Roma termini to the Tivoli train station and it’s about a 15 minute walk to the Villa. We visited back in 2015 and it was amazing. Unfortunately when we visited again a few years ago, post Covid, it was in need of some TLC and just not the same. I am hoping that they were able to bring it back to its once amazing splendor. An estate unlike any other in Italy as far as water features go.
I could go on and on about Rome. If there is a specific region you will be visiting let me know and I can be more specific. Rome is truly the Eternal City and I would be happy spending every day of my life there…
Sorrento, Capri, Anacapri, Amalfi & Positano
We use Sorrento as our home base when visiting this region of Italy and we stay only at Hotel Prestige. The hotel sits atop a hill overlooking the gulf and manager Angela is an amazing host. I recommend getting a room on the 2nd floor with a private deck overlooking the bay (we prefer room #206 but any room in that section is lovely). They offer continuous van service from the hotel to the city of Sorrento which makes it very convenient. Their breakfast is also very nice.
Sorrento has a new shopping district that is nice at night. Enjoy an aperitif on the piazza at Bar Ercolano then follow the street Corso Italia to find all the shops. The world famous Fauno Bar is across the street from Bar Ercolano however Fauno Bar is full of tourists so we prefer Ercolano.
Primavera Gelato, Sorrento Best gelato is at world famous Primavera Gelato just up the street from Ercolano’s on Corso Italia. Amazing selection and not too overpriced.
Chantecler's Trattoria is a nice hidden trattoria in Sorrento located on a very small street near Corso Italia. Local hangout with a nice staff and family run.
Best take out pizza can be found at Tony E Rosy. This place is a real hole in the wall located just off the main Sorrento piazza, up from Chantecler’s in the same alley. Open until midnight every night but closed Wednesdays I believe. No frills but great pizza.
A nice trattoria in Sorrento near the water is Trattoria da Emilia. You will find lots of Americans here and you won’t hear much Italian but it's still a nice place. It’s a nice walk from the main piazza and a great location on the water. It is a tourist trap but still a fun place. If you ever watch the 1955 movie “Scandal in Sorrento” with Sophia Loren the scene Sophia selling fish is filmed in the exact location where Trattoria da Emilia is now located. No reservations and I have seen a line a mile long to get in so be prepared.
The best place to eat in Sorrento, in my opinion, is Bagni Delfino. The chefs are amazing and the location is right on the water. One of the finer ristoranti in southern Italy. Reservations are a must as you will not get in without one. Amazing views of the gulf!
A beautiful dish at Ristorante Bagni Delfino Another great trattoria is Alfred - Trattoria Moderna. The chef/owner there is a friend of mine who used to be the chef at Lo Guarracino in Positano (another must when visiting Positano, I talk about it later). His food is amazing and this place is strictly locals. There is a parking lot about 50 meters from the entrance (the entrance to the trattoria is off the alley, you will swear you are lost but trust me it’s worth the effort). A very small place with amazing food.
A wonderful creation from chef Francesco at Alfred - Trattoria Moderna Capri…we prefer using the Europa Hydrofoil GESCAB because it is small and faster than the larger ferries. Buy your tickets right there at the Porto di Sorrento. Try to get a round trip ticket and head back from Capri in the 4:30 PM range. That way you have time to enjoy aperitif in Sorrento and dinner.
Capri is magical, take the little bus up to Anacapri (it is really a CRAZY ride!). You will find the bus next to the dock, same area where you buy your tickets to use the funicular which takes you up to the town of Capri.
Giardini di Augusto can be found by taking a short hike over to the other side of Capri where you will find an incredible view of Faraglioni.
View of the Faraglioni from the Giardini di Augusto In Capri I also recommend taking a ride on a small boat around the entire island, stopping of course in the Grotta Azzurra. You will find these boats at the same dock when you exit the hydrofoil before you reach the funicular that takes you up the hill to the main part of Capri. We like the ones that seat around 8 people.
Try not to miss the ceramic shop The Sea Gull Ceramics (our friends Agnese and Claudio are the owners) and the perfume shop Carthusia Antica Profumo. The perfume shop can be found along the walk to the Faraglioni. There are multiple locations for Carthusia but we prefer this one. It is a step back in time and a wonderful place.
We never eat in Capri, just have gelato at Buonocore Gelateria Pasticceria. Capri is wildly expensive for food and it is better to wait until you return to Sorrento to have aperitif and dinner.
A visit to Pompei from Sorrento is an easy trip if you like. Simply grab the Sorrento train to Pompei just off the main piazza in Sorrento and it will drop you a few hundred meters from the entrance to Pompei. Purchase your tickets at the entrance to Pompei. Nice day trip.
The drive from Sorrento into Positano and Amalfi is magical. Be sure and stop along the way to enjoy the vistas looking out over the Tyrrhenian sea.
If arriving by car into Positano we prefer this garage for parking . It is in a good spot within easy walking distance to all of Positano and the beach. The staff there are also really nice. Waze will take you to the garage but it is a narrow windy road to the garage and leaving the garage. It is expensive (€10/hour) but everything in Positano is expensive. Be sure and tip them…
Beautiful Positano…❤️❤️ So many shops in Positano along the walk from the parking lot to the beach. We have a few favorites including Ceramica Assunta (Daniella is usually in this shop) and Mastro Sandali Positano shop where my wife buys at least two pairs each year.
Mastro Sandali actually makes the sandals there at the shop. The sandals in Capri are famous because Jackie Kennedy wore them but way overpriced in my opinion so we buy them in Positano. But if you don’t mind dropping $250 in Capri for a pair go for it.
We eat at only one place in Positano…Lo Guarracino. It sits right on the water on a cliff overlooking the sea. It is a little bit of a hike along the coast from the Positano beach but worth it. Not a tourist trap because most folks don’t know it is there. The chefs are amazing. Be sure and make a reservation and sit at one of the few tables that borders the edge of the trattoria overlooking the Tyrrhenian sea. Go for lunch…you will never want to leave.
Lo Guarracino, Positano We don’t spend more than an afternoon in Positano as we find that is enough. The tourists have really taken over. We prefer Sorrento at night so we hang out there. The Positano beach is also a nice place to sit and people watch but again it has become very crowded.
Bagni Salvatore is a great beach to enjoy and take a swim. It is located a short walk from the main piazza.
If you want to go to mass at night in Sorrento they have an outdoor mass here: Cathedral of Saints Philip and James which is located right on the main street and is very nice.
One very unique shop that we love in Sorrento is F.Lli Iannuzzi located just off the main piazza. I am not aware of any manufacturer anywhere else that produces inlaid wood furniture of this quality. Iannuzzi pieces are found at high end shops all over the world. Stop in to simply browse their amazing pieces. I am lucky enough to have a piece from their collection that was purchased back in the 1980’s at a shop in the MGM grand hotel in Las Vegas:
Our piece from F.Lli Iannuzzi
Napoli (Naples)
Napoli has the reputation of being a little scary and dirty but over the past few years they have cleaned it up. Not a favorite of my wife’s but I love it. Famous for pizza and Sfogliatelle dolce.
Museo Cappella Sansevero (a MUST SEE) and of course see the Cristo Velato in the museo. Not too far from Christmas Alley.
Caffè Ciorfito is near Christmas alley. Be sure and go there…amazing cafè and dolce. Grab a seat outside and people watch. Excellent dolce:
Caffè Ciorfito If you take the train to Napoli, as you are walking toward the main part of town just outside the station stop by Sfogliatelle Attanasio for dolce and for sure a Sfogliatelle. They are world famous for their Sfogliatelle so just look for the line.
There are lots of pizza places (many tourist traps you should avoid) but one of our favorites is Pizzeria Antonio Sorbillo. Sit outside and enjoy their amazing pizza Napoli and a Peroni beer. In the alley next to Sorbillo you will find the famous mural of Sophia Loren. Across the alley is the Complesso Museale Santa Maria delle Anime del Purgatorio ad Arco, a very creepy museum dedicated to purgatory.
Da Michele is super famous for pizza from the Julie Roberts movie but the line is always a mile long. I have been told that if you want to get in arrive by 10:30 AM. Personally I would not waste my time waiting because there are other places that are better.
Hopefully you will visit the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, aka Duomo di Napoli. Beautiful place and home to Saint Gennaro.
Christmas Alley is several blocks long and has an amazing number of shops all dedicated to Christmas. Probably nothing like it anywhere else in the world.
From Rome the high speed train will get you to Napoli in 1 hr and 15 minutes and runs every 20 to 30 minutes. From the Napoli main train station it is a 15 minute walk into the heart of the city.
Firenze (Florence)
Firenze is probably my most favorite city, next to Rome, in all of Italy. I just love it and could easily live there. But alas the tourist traffic over the past few years has exploded so you have to really know where to go in order to avoid all the congestion.
Here are a few tips for Firenze and the rest of Italy:
Lots of gypsy's in Firenze. They will ask you the time of day in order to hear you speak. Once they hear how you talk they will try and engage you and they won't leave you alone. They will also try to give you things (bracelets, etc.) in order to get your attention. Ignore them and just say "no capisco". Don't look at them if possible.
You will see a coperto charge (2€ to 3 € per person) on your bill at a trattoria/ristorante. That is the added tip. I always leave a little more but that's your call.
Just a few language pointers. Don't say ciao to anyone unless they are your friend. Proper greetings are buongiorno before 2pm, buonasera after 2pm (don't say buonanotte even though that means good evening, that is reserved for bedtime) and arrivederci for goodbye is always appropriate unless you are speaking to a single adult and you want to show some respect. Then you say arrivederla. Prego is always used for thank you. What is your name is “come ti chiami?”. “Mi chiamo Beth” (my name is Beth). If you want to politely ask for something you use “vorrei” like “vorrei un gelato”, “vorrei cinque biscotti” (I would like 5 cookies), etc. You will hear the word allora a lot. It is similar in English to "well", "then", etc., simply a pause when someone is thinking what to say next. Pronto is used to answer the phone. "Lentamente per favore" if you are trying to understand what someone is saying and you want to slow them down. “Quanto costa?” translates to “what is the price for this”? When you want wine in a trattoria always ask for the house wine, even if you don’t see it on the menu (“vorrei un litro vino rosso della casa” or “vorrei un mezzo litro vino rosso della casa” for half a liter). The house wine is always the best (my opinion) because it is local. Be respectful and the Italians will love you. Remember also that sometimes the workers do get a little frazzled, especially in Firenze, because it is so busy.
Be sure you have a purse that will zip up as the pickpockets are very good in Firenze and there are lots of them especially at the train station. The San Pietro train station near the Vatican is also very famous for pickpockets. Use your Visa and make sure that your Visa company does not charge international fees (most Visa cards don’t charge fees but check to be sure). Apple Pay/Apple Wallet is best in Italy as the Italians do not want to touch your credit card. Most places you eat at will never physically take your card from you, they will bring a reader to the table. Always tip with cash as you can’t add a tip to your bill if you pay by credit card. Firenze trattorias do tend to demand cash, no credit card, so be prepared. Pay for car rentals also with Visa as Amex Platinum offers car insurance coverage but NOT IN ITALY. Remember also that in Italy March 10, 1955 is written 10/3/1955, not 3/10/1955 so don’t get confused with the reservation dates you receive. I am certain you will enjoy gelato when you are there but DO NOT BUY PUFFED UP GELATO THAT IS DISPLAYED IN MOUNDS. It is puffed up with air and never half as good as the normal looking gelato. You will see the puffed up gelato all over in glass cases but avoid it.
Here are a few highlights for Firenze:
We stay only at the Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1 1 right on the Arno river. It is a little pricey but really first class and worth every penny. You eat your breakfast on the top of the tallest private tower in all of Firenze which overlooks the Arno river. Their wine bar and terrace overlooks all of Firenze and is beautiful at night. The breakfast does cater to Americans so you can get eggs, omelettes, etc. They also sometimes serve cavallo which the head waiter knows I love and you will too (just ignore that your are eating horse meat!). Website: Antica Torre di via Tornabuoni 1
Gelateria La Carraia has great gelato and is just over the bridge Ponte Trinità from Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1.
All'Antico Vinaio is known as the best panini shop in the world. There are actually 3 locations on this one street. When we first starting going here years ago you might wait 10 minutes max. You could get your panini and a plastic cup which you would fill with their house wine which they had sitting on the counter. Now you can wait hours so we seldom go there as there are other panini shops nearby that are just about as good but not famous. But if you want to get an original just get in line…try La Favolosa...one of my favorites.
The original All’Antico Vinaio on strada via dei Neri
Over in the Santa Croce district you will find Semel which has good panini. Also good for panini is nearby Lo Schiacciavino and near the Ponte Vecchio you can try Ino for panini.
Gustapizza is a must go. Just over the Ponte Trinità…you won't go anywhere else for pizza once you go there. Grab a plastic cup of their house wine and find a table to share…just ask and they will refill your wine.🍷 They also offer “porta via” (to go).
Brunelleschi's Dome. Climb to the top of the duomo, a must do at least once. Tickets can be purchase here.
The Baptistery of St John is next to the duomo and the Gates of Paradise (Bronze doors) are on the outside of the Baptistery (actually, these are copies…the real ones are in the Opera del Duomo museum about 200 yards east of these).
If you get a ticket to go inside the Duomo or climb the dome it will also grant you access to the Baptistery of St John. There are different ticket types which you will find at this link. If you want to simply pray in the Duomo you don’t need to pay, there is a south side entrance so just ask and they will let you in. You can also attend 5 PM mass by entering at that same south entrance.
Basilica di San Lorenzo. Medici’s are buried here, visit the new sacristy which was designed by Michelangelo and is amazing. Michelangelo’s newly opened “Secret Room” is now available to visit.
Venchi chocolate shops. They are everywhere in Italia, even the train stations. Great for gifts to bring back to the states.
Climb the Torre di Arnolfo (link for tickets) tower in the piazza della Signoria.
We eat a lot at Trattoria I Due G. It is strictly locals and a little bit of a walk from Piazza Signoria but worth it. Excellent house wine. You will think you are lost but you will find it. A GREAT family run the place.
GO SEE DAVID at Accademia Gallery. Also go to the Uffizi, probably the most incredible museum in the world. Find tickets for both at this link: https://webshop.b-ticket.com/webshop/webticket/eventlist
For leather jackets and purses go to Pratesi Leather Fashion. Nice selection and good quality. My wife also loves to shop Desigual in Italy. There many stores but this particular one in Firenze is her favorite.
Also Infinity Leather makes remarkable purses, right there in their shop. My wife has several of their purses and the quality is top.
There are TONS of leather shops in Firenze, fake and real. Be careful if you want the real thing. We never shop at the street stalls for leather FYI.
Go for an aperitif to my friend Beckham’s pub…Daunbailo' Irish Pub…it is a blast and usually filled with the younger crowd. Please tell him you are Jack’s friend. His brother also has a great place called The Old Stove Irish Pub. It is also a lot of fun. Both are open to at least 2AM.
Trattorias in Firenze tend to be pricey (tourists…) one of the reasons I recommend I Due G as it is strictly locals, great food, good prices and off the beaten path. Other popular places include Trattoria 13 Gobbi (you will need a reservation), Trattoria Sostanza (their famous dish of “carciofi frittata” is worth the visit, cash only and reservations a must), Trattoria Mario (old time Trattoria, incredible Bistecca alla Fiorentina) and Trattoria Roberto (recommend to me by the staff at Antica Torre, I look forward to trying it). Peserus is about a 25 minute walk or 15 minute taxi ride from Piazza Signoria. It is well known for Bistecca Fiorentina. One more that I highly recommend it Trattoria Palle D'Oro dal 1860 famous for their Peposo. It is a wonderful meat stew that you have to try.
Street food in Firenze is also amazing. If you want to be adventurous go to Trippa Pollini, one of the best street vendors for Trippa Lampredotto (slow cooked intestinal lining).
Be sure and stand on either the Ponte Vecchio bridge or the Ponte Trinità bridge at sunset…you will never want to leave…❤️
Piazzale Michelangelo is a great spot to visit for an incredible view. Visit also the nearby rose garden Giardino delle Rose. During the spring time this “rose garden” is a gem. Something you will never forget.
I could go on and on about Firenze because I know it so well and have friends there. But alas you will only have so much time. My wife loves to shop dresses and leather in Firenze where you will find terrific places to shop for both. I buy most of my clothes in Rome and near our house north of Rome in the town of Ladispoli. One note: the bridge Ponte Vecchio is famous for jewelry. Look all you want as it is beautiful but I recommend you purchase your jewelry elsewhere. The prices are very inflated and you will find other shops in other towns with great jewelry and at a better price. I know a couple of the vendors on the Ponte Vecchio and they have great jewelry but again overpriced. We have purchased most of our jewelry in Italy at The Coral Shop in our hometown of Ladispoli. It is a family run business and they have a tremendous selection. Ladispoli is just a short train ride from Rome.
Siena
Known locally as “little Firenze” or “Firenze piccolo” Siena is a wonderful place. Incredible wine including wine from Montepulciano, San Gimignano and that entire region. Great place to stay and use as your home base for visiting local wineries. I would prefer Siena or possibly San Gimignano over Firenze as a home base for exploring Toscana wineries as Firenze is very busy, more expensive and impossible to drive in. Your hotel can be reached by car in Siena and where we stay you can park right in front of the hotel. This makes it easy to go on day trips to the surrounding wineries. We always stay at Hotel Palazzo Ravizza.
Siena also has an AMAZING piazza, world famous Piazza del Campo, and we love to sit there at night, drink wine and enjoy affettati (antipasti plate). Occurring twice each year on the 2nd of July and the 16th of August, the Palio is a horse race held in the Piazza del Campo where 10 of the 17 “contrade”, or districts, are chosen randomly by a lottery system to participate in the race. It’s nothing like you have ever seen before.
We always have lunch or dinner at Osteria da Divo, sit downstairs in a cave like setting. A wonderful family run trattoria with great local dishes.
Great sites in Siena include St Catherine’s church. Her relics are in the church including her skull and finger (no pictures allowed!). The Duomo di Siena is beautiful with a truly incredible mosaic floor. The uncovered floor can only be seen for a period of six to ten weeks each year, usually including the month of September. The rest of the year, most of the mosaics are covered and only a few are on display.
As mentioned above Siena is like a “Little Firenze” especially when it comes to shopping leather. You will find great leather shops, including some that are “sister” shops to their main shops in Firenze. My wife has a beautiful leather jacket she found in Siena at De Nicola Pelletteria very near the main piazza. The quality was 🔝.
Venezia (Venice)
You will find Venezia to be very busy and crowded. It is a real issue now but hopefully it will get better as the government is taking steps to minimize the impact of all the tourists and cruise ships. A daily charge is now imposed on visitors not staying in Venezia. We prefer to hangout on the west side of the Rialto bridge (the San Polo region of Venezia) as it tends to be quieter and has more locals. San Polo region is also home to the famous Venezia Fish and Produce Market which is worth a visit. It is really fun but try to go early when all the vendors are out. You will of course visit San Marco square and you have to take a Gondola ride…we prefer this bridge Ponte de la Cortesia for the Gondola. The prices are all the same no matter where you get on the Gondola but we prefer this spot.
We stay at a small 4 room hotel on the outskirts to avoid tourist traffic. It is just a short walk to the Rialto bridge from the hotel. Our favorite hotel is Residenza Corte Antica which is very close to the S. Samuele Vaporetto stop (ferry system in Venezia). The owner’s name is Rodolfo.
We tend to hangout on the “other” side of the Rialto bridge, in the San Polo district, because it is less crowded and filled with more locals. The San Marco district is where most of the tourists will be found and is of course amazing but again crowded. The shopping is amazing in Venezia, from the small local artisans to the larger well known Italian retailers. There is truly an endless amount of shops in the San Marco district, San Polo district and around the Rialto bridge. All the small streets are filled with local artisan shops.
On San Marco square visit Caffè Florian, the very famous and beautiful cafè where you can sit and people watch (you have to pay to sit at the tables but if simply want a caffè you can have it at the counter).
We also LOVE to go to Pasticceria Marchini Time for caffè and dolce in the morning, a local favorite with incredible pastries. You simply get your goodies and stand at the counter.
Aperitif time is around 5 PM and you must try cicchetti, Venezia’s version of antipasti. Our favorite place is Ostaria dai Zemei in the San Polo region. Find an empty table, then go to the counter and choose your cicchetti. They will take your wine order at the table. Fabulous selection (best in Venice we think) and great Aperol Spritz…it is a local hangout.
In Venezia we eat dinner ONLY at Trattoria Rialto Novo. Amazing food and the staff is super. Ask to sit outside in the back if the weather is good. Every time we go there I am amazed at their dishes and presentation. Get a reservation for sure. The best in my opinion, and I think you will love it.
If you simply want a slice or two of pizza Farini is the place, again in the San Polo region. Very well known and tasty.
If you want to simply sit and have a decent pasta or pizza, Rossopomodoro is near San Marco square. Rossopomodoro can be found in major Italian cities…it is a family chain trattoria. Their prices are inexpensive, house wine is decent and they have a “to go (porta via in Italian)” shop next door if you want to take something back to the hotel.
We do a lot of shopping in Venezia and have purchased beautiful lace and tablecloths,, Carnivale masks, clothing, shoes, Murano glass which is everywhere and there are also several BEAUTIFUL glove shops. My wife has several pairs of gloves from Venezia and loves them. But the fun thing about Venezia is simply walking through all the small streets, exploring all the little shops that are hidden. Both sides of the Rialto contain little shops that you just have to discover. Walk the small canals and bridges if you have time.
If you have time, take the Vaporetto over to the island of Murano to see the glass factories. Walk to the F.te Nove "C" Vaporetto station and take the Vaporetto to the island of Murano. Murano is filled with glass shops. Several of the shops will allow you to watch the artisans blow the glass. We like Vetreria Artistica Reno Schiavon, Nason Giampaolo and the Museo del Vetro. If you are really interested in buying be sure and ask to see the “other” rooms and the “rooms upstairs”. This is where you will find the truly amazing pieces which they don’t normally show to all the tourists.
Also Burano is an amazing island near Murano. On the island of Burano the place to eat is Al Gatto Nero. Careful because they are closed on Monday’s (many trattorias in Italy are closed on Monday so be sure and check their hours).
If you go south and cross over the Ponte dell’Academia into the Dorsoduro district of Venezia there is a wonderful out of the way spot for lunch outside called Ristorante San Trovaso. Check it out if you get a chance.
Venezia is also a good starting point to visit Verona. Great day trip and of course you will visit the famous “Casa di Giulietta”❤️❤️. It is about an 1 1/2 hours train ride from Venezia Santa Lucia station to Verona. From the Verona train station it is a short walk through the Porta Nuova Verona and into the city. I have not spent much time there but hope to go back soon.
Umbria and Toscana (Tuscany)
We have spent a lot of time in the Toscana/Umbria regions of Italia. I talked about Siena and Firenze above but of course San Gimignano is wonderful as well as Montepulciano. We have many friends in the town of Sigillo which is a wonderful little town in Umbria. If you want to stay in a town that has zero tourists and is beautiful I would stay in Sigillo. We stay at a penthouse that overlooks the mountains and the valley. It is available for rental and is a beautiful place. Let me know if you are interested.
Highlights of the Umbria region are the cities of Gubbio, Perugia, Assisi (an amazing town), Foligno, Deruta (the holy grail of ceramics in Italia), etc. Best to drive in this region as the train routes are not extensive because of the mountains.
Gubbio is an amazing town, very near the town of Costacciaro where my son’s great grandparents were born. Highlights include the Festa dei Ceri which is held each May. It is really an amazing feast and something you will never see anywhere else. Here is a link to a short history of the festa: The festival of the Ceri in Gubbio - Italia.it
Running of the Ceri’s during the Festa dei Ceri, Gubbio, held each May Gubbio is a great day trip with wonderful shops off the beaten path of tourists. We eat only at Ristorante Il Lepre. Amazing food prepared by chef Francesca who is the sister on owner Stefano. Check out the Gubbio ceramic stores which are very nice and a little cheaper than shopping in Deruta which I will discuss below. Be sure and visit the Palazzo dei Consoli which is the main piazza with an amazing view. Take the funicular up to the top of the mountain and visit Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo for an even more incredible view of the valley. You will also find the three “Ceri’s” there in the church which are carried through the town during the Festa dei Ceri.
I mentioned Sigillo where we always stay when in Umbria. Zero tourists there and not much to do as it is literally a simple Italian town filled with people that have been there for centuries. Great food for lunch or dinner can be found at Ristorante Pizzeria Villa Anita. I also love La Botte Piccola for antipasti and wine. Sit outside in their little patio. A wonderful place for lunch is Agriturismo Borgo Umbro just outside of Sigillo. A short 15 minute drive from Sigillo you will find Piatto d’Oro. It is one of the first places we ever ate in Umbria and owner Anna is amazing. She comes out from the kitchen, covered in flour, sits down at your table and asks you in Italian “OK, what do you want to eat”? It is an adventure to eat at Piatto d’Oro. I really miss seeing Anna.
Nearby you will find Museo della Carta e della Filigrana, the museum of paper which is really very interesting. You can see actual demonstrations of artisans making world class paper. Also nearby Sigillo is Grotte di Frasassi. Schedule a tour of the Frasassi karst cave system that is really incredible. Take a drive from Sigillo up to Monte Cucco for spectacular views of the valley below and to watch the hang gliders launch from the mountain side.
Perugia is world famous for their chocolate and each year they have a week long cioccolato festival held in November which everyone that loves chocolate attends. Perugia even has a chocolate museum. Perugia is also great for shopping clothes, etc. The town is a little touristy but not too bad. Amazing view from the main piazza looking over the valley. We usually always eat at Osteria a Priori which has a wonderful lunch menu and amazing wine. You sit upstairs in a beautiful trattoria setting. If you just want to grab something quick and sit for a few minutes we go to Umbrò. They have a nice market downstairs and a “buffet style” lunch counter upstairs with some very tasty dishes. If you have a sweet tooth check out the Perugina store where we have purchased many nice gift items and Pasticceria Sandri which has nice dolce, cioccolato and amazing grappa. Perugia was actually built on top of the old city and you can tour the underground city if you like. I usually park here at Parcheggio Saba Piazza Partigiani and walk up to the main part of town. There are escalators so just follow the signs.
Enjoying some grappa at Sandri’s…some of the best I have every had Five minutes from the main town is Studio Moretti Caselli. You will find amazing stained glass, a museum and artisans hard at work. Moretti Caselli stained glass can be seen all over the world including the famous last supper at Forest Lawn Hollywood Hills. It is a little hard to find the museum but worth it. Make a reservation.
A short drive from the main town you will find Museo-Laboratorio di tessitura a mano Giuditta Brozzetti. Marta Cucchia is an amazing textile artisan and offers a wonderful tour of her shop/museum. More information can be found here at her website.
About a 30 minute drive from Perugia you will find Fratelli Angelucci , a wonderful farm run by a very nice family. You can learn to make pasta, make several different kinds of cheeses and go truffle hunting with their truffle dogs. It’s a great 1/2 day trip which will include a fabulous lunch if you like. For more information and to book a class, etc., click here.
Fabulous cheeses in the kitchen at Fratelli Angelucci Deruta is the holy grail for Italian ceramics and I think Grazia Maioliche Ceramics is one of the best. Chiara is the owner (her father died several years back) and is very sweet. They will give you a wonderful tour if you like and ship your items back. However, be aware that if you choose to have them ship your items you will pay shipping, a customs fee AND receive a tax bill from the state of California at the end of the year. We always try to bring back our items on the plane if possible.💵
Artisans hard at work at Sberna in Deruta The above video was taken in 2015 at Sberna. An amazing artisan with his creation!
Across the street from Grazia is Franco Mari which also has beautiful ceramics. Also across the street is Sberna, owned by Anna and Franca. Beautiful designs and if you ask they will take you downstairs for a nice tour of their workplace. But be aware this is Deruta and home to the best AND the highest priced ceramics but amazing quality and designs. You go to Deruta strictly to get ceramics as there is little else there. We usually stop in Deruta on the way to somewhere else in Umbria.
Assisi…what can you say? It is amazing and you most likely have been there but it has become a tourist nightmare over the last few years. I do love it but I know where to park, etc., and can get around there and avoid a lot of the tourists. Of course the Basilica Papale e Sacro Convento di San Francesco is amazing and downstairs you get to visit St Francis’ tomb. Also Carlos Acutis, the soon to be canonized teenage saint, can be seen at Chiesa Santa Maria Maggiore which is on the other end of town from the main basilica. We eat at Trattoria Pallotta Assisi which is nice but can be very crowded during season. For something on the go Piadina Bio Assisi is great for Piadina’s. If you wish to stay in Assisi my friend Mountain Butorac who runs “The Catholic Traveler” tour company in Rome always stays at the Hotel Umbra in the town of Assisi.
The amazing Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli is down the hill from Assisi and worth a stop. It is really beautiful. Just up the street from the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli is a small, amazing (!) cheese and wine shop called Terra Umbra Antica. Rudy and Barbara are dear friends and you will simply love their cheeses and wine selection. Tell them you are friends of ours and they will be more than happy to have you sample their goodies. We have known them for over 10 years and they carry some amazing products. If you would like to tour a beautiful Olive Oil factory a few minutes away from the town of Assisi go see the gals at Frantoio Decimi. A wonderful family that runs this boutique olive oil factory. Book a tour if you get a chance.
Foligno..I fell in love with Foligno years ago. Amazing history and a beautiful piazza to hang out in. You will find amazing chef/owner Pierino at Ristorante Osteria Del Teatro serving food and wine you won’t see at other ristorante. For every course he brought us a different wine and I think we were about 14 people. I think we sat there for 3 hours eating and drinking wine. It was amazing. Walk from Osteria Del Teatro to the main piazza and enjoy a gelato at Bar Duomo. Across the piazza you will find the museum Pinacoteca Civica di Foligno and the Cattedrale di San Feliciano. We park at Parcheggio Il Frantoio which is a 5 minute walk from town.
Todi is a wonderful hilltop town that is great for a day visit. Park down below at this lot and take the funicular up to town. Not too many tourists and several wonderful outdoor bars for wine in the piazza. My wife loves to shop there for linens at Tessitura Pardi Todi. It is a nice family run shop with an amazing selection. We eat only at Ristorante la Mangiatoia which is small and cozy. Ask to sit outside. The house wine is wonderful (also if I have not mentioned it before 95% of the time was ask for house wine as it is usually the best and the prices are amazing). Maioliche Pia is near the ristorante and is a nice small ceramic shop with many religious items. I have heard that Ristorante Umbria is also very nice. It has an amazing view but has always been closed when we were there. Recent reviews have not been that great so no guarantees. If you want a nice panino try Il Grottino near the piazza.
Orvieto is a special town for us. It sits on top of the hill and we have been there numerous times. Amazing views and it has been said that when the earth ends God will take the Orvieto Duomo to heaven because it is so beautiful. Click here to see a live webcam of the Duomo. Great small shops, ceramics that are exclusively made in Orvieto, Orvieto wine that is wonderful and found all throughout the town in numerous shops and the food is amazing. I prefer to park at Parcheggio Piazza Cahen. Our go-to trattoria is Trattoria del Moro Aronne. Wonderful family run trattoria with amazing unique dishes. Be sure and try their signature dish Nidi di Rondine. It is not an easy dish to make and I have never found anyone that makes it as good as Aronne. There house wine is also excellent. Gastronomia Arene is just around the corner from Aronne and is a wonderful cheese and wine shop. Up the street from the Duomo you will find Antica Bottega al Duomo which is run by Pippo and his family. Small place with outside seating. We like their panini and antipasti plus their house wine is top. Pippo is a real personality and will make you feel at home.
For shopping we like Righe & Pois for nice tablecloths, napkins and fabric. Elisabetta at Bellocci Ceramics has very nice pieces including nice pitchers and table pieces. Silvana Ceramics specializes in pieces with patterns that you will find only in Orvieto. I have several of her pieces and love them.
If you would like to stay in Orvieto my friend Mountain Butorac from “The Catholic Traveler” stays at the Grand Hotel Italia. Visit Orvieto Underground if you would like to see the town under the town. Do not miss the Duomo di Orvieto. The small chapel on the left side of the Duomo contains the Corpus Christi. Each year the miracle of Christ’s presence in the Eucharist is celebrated in Orvieto. People come from all over for the festa. Beautiful views can be found at Fortezza Albornoz near the parking lot. Again, Orvieto is a wonderful little town. I took my wife’s cousins to Orvieto in 2019 and they still talk about it to this day.
Here is the link to Trenitalia trains app:
For Android: Trenitalia - Apps on Google Play
For iPhone: Trenitalia on the App Store
You can also get your trains tickets online at www.trenitalia.it
If you need a driver to and from the airport or anywhere in Rome, Bari, Civitavecchia…I have guys that will pick you up and take you to where you need to go.
I could go on and on, listing hundreds of churches and other places to go but alas time is not on your side unless you stay months. As you travel Italy you will realize that the little out of the way places where you stop will be the most enchanting and memorable. Everywhere you drive there are treasures. Take the time to visit the locals and the little towns if you can. If you do, you will realize that Italians have truly discovered the way to live and enjoy life.
Updated July 6, 2025