Discovering Puglia
Bari vecchia and all the beautiful towns located in this less "touristy" area of Italy
Traveling to Bari
I recommend flying into Fiumicino Leonardo da Vinci and either taking the high speed train to Bari, driving to Bari or taking a short plane ride to Bari airport. I do have a driver available that can pick you up at Fiumicino and take you to your hotel in Rome if you chose to stay there overnight or for a few days before traveling to Bari. Let me know and I can send you his information. If you are traveling by train to Bari you need to take the Frecciaargento High Speed train from Roma Termini to Bari (be sure and book Business Class, you will love it). It leaves at 08:05 and arrives in Bari at 12:11. Try to arrive at the station around 07:00. Taxis will most likely drop you on the side of the station but possibly in front and it is a short walk to the High Speed train platform. I personally use only the Trenitalia app and QR codes for the train. It is convenient to use the app especially if you have an iPhone as the tickets are added directly to your Wallet. However if you are not familiar with the app I would recommend you purchase tickets (biglietti) online and print out your tickets so you have them ready to go. That way you can easily check in (you will need to show your ticket in order to access the High Speed train platform) and it is easy when the conductor checks your tickets on the train. When you arrive in Bari the Hertz is about 2 blocks from the station. You will actually exit out the rear of the station onto the main street, via Giuseppe Capruzzi. Walk south and you will arrive at Hertz which is a few blocks away at Via Luigi Ricchioni, 26. I usually have my wife exit to the front of the station and wait in the Piazza Aldo Moro with our luggage. I then pick up the car at Hertz and drive through the tunnel and over to the front of the station. That way we don’t have to carry our luggage to the Hertz office. The issue is that the train usually arrives late and the Hertz closes at 13:00 and does not reopen until 15:00. If you do decide to take the train I can give Pasquale the manager at the Hertz office a heads up and he will wait for you. I have known him for years and he has no issue making sure you get your car. He will monitor the arrival time of your train so he knows if you are late or not. Then it is a short drive to Adelfia or wherever you decide to stay.
You can choose to fly from Fiumicino to Bari on a connecting flight or you can spend some time in Rome before taking a flight to Bari. There are many options for airlines but I always choose ITA (formerly Alitalia) as they seem to be the most dependable. The Hertz at the Bari airport is also easy to walk to.
You can also rent a car at Hertz Fiumicino airport or later on in Rome and drive to Bari which takes a little over 5 hours. It is a nice drive and if you leave early you can stop in Trani for lunch before heading to Bari. I have used this Hertz in Rome in the past and it is very reliable and located near the Vatican. If you do choose to drive from Rome to Bari be sure and take the Waze route that takes you on the autostrada A1 to the A30 and then A16. The A16 will then take you to the A14 to Bari. If you are not careful Waze may try to take you on a route that goes through some windy roads. It is a scenic route but I don’t recommend it as it takes a lot longer.
If you need pointers on how to setup you cellphone please let me know. If you are staying for an extended length of time you might find it best to simply go to the local Vodafone in Italy and change out the SIM in your phone. If you have a newer model phone that has an eSIM the change is even easier. With an eSIM, you simply open an account, pay the startup fee, they assign an eSIM to your phone and then under iPhone Settings you choose that number as the primary number (your Italian phone number starts with a +39). When you leave Italy you tell Vodafone what day to stop your service and then you switch your phone back to your number in the states. If you start to run out of money in on your Vodafone account you simply stop into a Vodafone and “refill” your account or use the app to refill. I have done this for years and all you need is your passport. They may ask you for your “codice fiscale” (similar to a Social Security number) but I have found that they really don’t require it. I use iPhone but I assume Android phones are just as easily switched out. Update: Vodafone has just announced that you can order your eSim here in the states, get it setup and simply activate it on the plane ride over to Italy (no internet needed to activate the new eSim). It looks a little more expensive than going to the Vodafone dealer in Italy but might be easier and better if you are not going to be in Italy for an extended period of time. You can get more information at this link regarding their new program: Vodafone Italy. Cellphone service is much less expensive in Italy (I pay less than 1/2 half the monthly rate compared to the USA) and the coverage is great but again it might not be worth your while if you are in Italy for just a few weeks. There is also a fairly new company here in the states, Airalo, where you can setup your eSIM online before you travel to Italy and simply switch to the new number when you land, similar to the new Vodafone offer. It appears to be more expensive than switching to Vodafone in Italy but again I have not used it. You can check it out here at Airalo. You can also purchase your cellphone company’s international plan here in the states which tends to be expensive. Note to that WiFi is available almost everywhere you go in Italy. You will need to be sure you have WhatsApp installed on your phone as that is how everyone communicates in Italy. WhatsApp works great over WiFi, for both texting and calling, so that always is a plus. You can easily call back to the states free of charge using WhatsApp and WiFi as long as both phones have WhatsApp installed.
Be sure and book your hotel(s) ASAP as Italy is busy this year because of the Jubilee. I always book directly with the hotel via email as I find the rates are usually better and you get better service. That however is your choice. Remember also that in Italy May 20, 2025 is written 20/5/2025, not 5/20/205 as in the states.
Adelfia, Puglia, consisting of two towns: Montrone and Canneto
So….I love ❤️ Montrone & Canneto, the two towns in Adelfia, our hometown. It is a perfect place for a home base to travel Puglia and experience life in a TRUE Italian town. Almost everyone that you see on the streets are our family!😂
Couple of things…there are zero tourists in Adelfia. Filomena owns and runs the B&B San Trifone. The room we always rent is “Matrimoniale Blu” but she has a total of five rooms. B&B San Trifone does not have a lift so you have to go up one flight but it’s easy. You will park about 50 yards from the B&B in a large lot located opposite the main gate of the city. The daily mercato takes place in this parking lot so be careful not to park near the curb because that is where they setup in the early morning. Best to park in the middle of the lot. Your breakfast will be taken about 50 yards up from the B&B in the piazza (which was recently repaved) at Clamè Bar. The B&B is located about 50 yards from the house where my wife’s father was born (via Nocolò Dotulla, 35) and 1 chilometro from my house (someday I hope to move in…🙏) in Canneto (an easy 13 minute walk).
Clamè is a wonderful bar full of dolce, cookies, etc. Very popular and you can sit outside. Filomena used to offer breakfast at her B&B but she found it better to provide “colazione” at Clamè.
You will find that the younger folks in town will understand some english but the older folks will most likely not. They speak a lot of dialect and not much Dante Italian but they will understand simple questions and commands. Filomena does not speak much english but you can communicate with her easily. She prefers to communicate using WhatsApp. Her WhatsApp number is +39 371 149 6998. All you will need to check in is your passport and ID. She will settle the bill when you leave.
Two other nice B&B’s in Adelfia (I have not stayed at either one but I have heard they are nice from people that have stayed):
B&B Don Franco - very near the main piazza in Montrone
Alla Niviera B&B Adelfia - I have not stayed here but know the owners. It is very nice and some units have a kitchenette.
My friend Gaetano Cassano owns the ristorante Fuochi which is about 50 yards from the B&B San Trifone. You have to eat here…it is amazing especially if you love meat. People come from all over to eat at Fuochi. Be sure and make a reservation. The app TheFork is an app in Italy similar to OpenTable in the USA. Fuochi is a member as are other eateries in Italy. You can download it here and give it a try. I simply call to make reservations no matter where I am in Italy but again your choice.
About 200 yards from the B&B you will find another one of my favorites, Vivè (great gelato and aperitif!) Fun to go in the morning to Vivè, have a caffè and people watch.
Remember that trattorias/ristoranti in Italy are open for lunch, usually until 3PM and then for dinner usually starting at 8PM. Unless you are in a tourist area in Italy you will not find anything open in the afternoon. Most eat their “dinner” at lunch time and then have a pizza or something at night but some do eat their big meal at night. Your choice.
Here are some other places to eat, enjoy aperitif, shop, etc., in Adelfia:
Le Plus Bon Ristorante - great for pizza, pasta, etc.
Sciccherie del latte caseificio - incredible cheese shop in Montrone. This is the satellite shop for the Canneto location.
Sciccherie del latte caseificio - location in Canneto where they make the cheese. The address is via Ambasciatore Attolico, 36, not too far from the main church. Carlo, Cristina, etc., are so nice. They will take you in the back if you want to watch them make mozzarella, ricotta, etc. (go early in the AM). Excellent Scamorza and other aged cheeses available at both locations. If you make a purchase they normally give you ricotta at no charge…🆓
Here is a video of my friend Carlo and his staff making mozzarella at Sciccherie del latte caseificio:
Casa Del Dolce Zambetta Francesco - cafè, a nice place for dolce, cookies and aperitif. Located about 100 yards from B&B San Trifone.
Gavì | Norcineria - Salumeria - Rosticceria - about 50 yards from B&B San Trifone. Nice little hole in the wall that is popular for pizza, meats, cheeses, etc.
Macelleria Lorenzo Pastore - great butcher shop just outside the B&B San Trifone.
Al Castello pizzeria - very nice people and good pizza. Just a few steps from the main church in Canneto.
Antica Caffetteria Vittoria - our favorite place to sit outside and have our afternoon aperitif. Also great if you need a caffè or want some gelato. Great place to people watch, located right on the Piazza Roma.
Prosepe - just my opinion, but one of the top pasticceria’s in all of Italy. Amazing cookies, dolce, cakes and gelato. They sell out quickly, especially on Sundays, so go early for the best selection of dolce and cookies. Michele and Enzo are amazing.
Beautiful creations found at Prosepe Ungari pasticceria - I have not been in the shop but have had their dolce and it was good.
Mav Fashion Cafè - when Prosepe is closed I have gone here for cookies and dolce. Not my first choice but not bad.
Macelleria Capozzi - located in nearby Bitritto, Capozzi has a wonderful selection of meat. Walk-in or pre-order.
La Campagnola - also located in Bitritto. Really nice ristorante in a beautiful setting.
Il Sottano Di Bacco - also located in Bitritto. Great food and a nice wine selection.
Elite Pizza - located in the nearby town of Casamassima. Great spot for pizza and beer with amazing prices. A no frills hangout with great pizza.
Polleria da Luigi - great place to buy your fresh chicken, rotisserie, etc.
I Sapori Del Grano S.R.L. - THE PLACE to get focaccia in Adelfia (my opinion…).
San Vittoriano bread shop - great bread, can pre-order if you like.
Casa Shop - great little market in Canneto.
Despar - another local market across the street from Casa Shop in Canneto
Amsicora Fiori - there are other flower shops in Adelfia and we have tried them all. Having been in the floral business for 20+ years trust me on this one. Gianna and Carlotta Cantacessi do beautiful designs.
Eren Beauty - great nail and spa owned by my cousin Serena Lacobellis. Located about 300 yards from the B&B San Trifone.
Lavanderia Suprema - if you need clothes dry cleaned go here. Located about 75 yards from B&B San Trifone.
The B&B San Trifone is located in the middle of the old town, 20 yards from the main church of San Nicola di Bari where my wife’s father was baptized (the current priest is Nicola Laricchia, my wife’s cousin). At San Nicola di Bari you will find the statue of our patron saint of Montrone, San Trifone. There are several other churches located in Canneto: Chiesa Madre dell'Immacolata Concezione and Chiesa della Madonna della Stella. Chiesa della Madonna Stella is across the street from my house (someday…🙏) and adjacent to Piazza Cimmarrusti. It is open only on special occasions. Chiesa Madre dell’Immacolata Concezione is the main church and my good friend don Salvatore is the priest. He is also the priest for Chiesa della Madonna Stella. Here you will find the statues of Canneto’s patron saints Madonna della Stella and San Vittoriano.
If you happen to visit Adelfia in November be sure and attend the Festa San Trifone. People come from everywhere for this well known Festa and it is amazing. Here is a link to my Facebook page with further information: Festa San Trifone
Remember also that cemeteries in Italy are often really good places to stop and see history and beauty. Canneto and Montrone both have beautiful cemeteries where most of my wife’s relatives are buried. Google maps for these two cemeteries: Montrone cemetery and Canneto cemetery They are both open daily but closed during lunch time.
Bari and southern Italy, the “heel” of the boot
For now Bari is off the usual tourist tract and probably one of the most beautiful areas in all of Italy. The coast is simply amazing and the wine there is second to none. If you ask the folks in Toscana where a lot of their best grapes come from they will tell you Puglia! Bari is a nice city and can be a great place to stay and use as a home base. And Bari is easy to reach by car, high speed train or plane. Bari vecchia which is the original town is a wonderful place to go at night and simply walk or as the Italians say enjoy a “passeggiata”. We like to stay at the Hi Hotel when staying in the city of Bari. Checkout the Hi Hotel website. It is in a great location because it is near Bari vecchia, has great parking, nice rooms, nice staff and a nice breakfast which is included in the stay. I am sure you are aware but most any place you stay in Italy includes breakfast. But remember breakfast for Italians is much different than an American breakfast unless you stay in a hotel that caters mostly to Americans (example, Antica Torre where we stay in Florence caters to Americans and they will serve eggs, omelets, etc., which you won’t find 95% of the time in other hotels). Italians love their cookies, dolce and espresso in the morning so you will always find these items available. Bari is also easy to reach by air and the Hertz office at the airport is just outside the main entrance. As I mentioned above in the introduction you can also easily reach Bari from Rome on the high speed train which is how we sometimes go. It is a nice 5 hour ride from Roma Termini in Business Class and the Hertz office is just outside the train station. If you do travel there by train let me know as I know the manager at the Hertz in Bari and I can be sure you are set up properly.
*Driving note: when driving on the autostrada use your Visa card to pay for your tolls. The line(s) for paying tolls with Visa will be shown with a blue sign above that lane and will read “Carte”. You simply insert your card, it processes it and then says “arrivederci” and the gate goes up. It is much easier than paying by cash. There are also Telepass lines with a yellow sign overhead which I use but it requires a transponder so avoid those. Some toll booths will simply issue you a ticket (Biglietto) because you are entering a toll road. When you leave that toll road you will insert the ticket and then you will insert your Visa to pay to appropriate toll.
The autostrada will get you where you want to go faster but we like to take the coast roads when possible, especially north of Barletta, as it is so beautiful plus you can make stops along the way and enjoy the beaches. You’ll find great little bars also for dolce, espresso, etc. Some of the best times we have had are simply driving up the coast and discovering different amazing places.
Places in Puglia to visit
Most of these spots are an easy ride from the city of Bari or Adelfia.
Cantine Ferri, our family winery in Valenzano! You can enjoy our new tasting room and all of our wines. Let me know and I will set up a visit.
Bari vecchia. Visit the old town where you will be immersed in the old Italian culture. Incredible food, street food, pizza, panzerotti, etc. See the old Italian ladies making pasta right on the street. Great panzerotti can be found at Pizzeria di Cosimo. Panificio Fiore is famous for focaccia Barese (you most likely will find a line out the door). My favorite spot for panini is Nino - il Salumiere. One time I asked Nino for a prosciutto, mortadella and provolone panini and he told me “no, prosciutto and mortadella are not good together on the same panini, I will make it with mortadella and provolone”…it was, as usual, delicious. In the morning fresh raw fish, oysters, octopus, ricci di mare (sea urchin), etc. can be found on the pier at El Chiringuito. They are open until noon on the weekdays and Saturday. This is a great place to check out what has come in from the sea that day. Our favorite gelato spot is Martinucci Laboratory. I always park here: Bari Vecchia parking. Bari Vecchia is magical at night and truly a wonderful experience.
Here is a video of the ladies making pasta orecchiette and frying Sgagliozze at night in Bari vecchia:
For shopping in the city of Bari exit Bari vecchia at the south end of town and cross over to via Argiro. There are some really nice shops along via Argiro and the adjacent side streets. It’s a nice place to take a passeggiata at night.
Ristoranti Terranima❤️ For a wonderful traditional lunch or dinner in Bari visit our favorite ristoranti Terranima. It is run by a wonderful family and located a short 12 minute walk from Bari vecchia. Wonderful food and wine…and don’t miss their Sporcamuss for dessert. If you simply want visit to Terramina parking can be a bit tricky so I always use this parking lot which if very close to the ristoranti.
Teatro Petruzzelli. Last trip we went to the opera house in Bari (across the street from Bari Vecchia) and saw Puccini’s “Turandot”. It truly is a once in a lifetime experience AND I hope to do it again. This theater is world famous and really beautiful inside and out.
Teatro Petruzzelli and “Turandot” Alberobello and the famous Trullis. Great 1/2 day trip. Parking is a little scarce because the lot where I used to park is now closed. There are however several places to park near the city center. I have not eaten in Alberobello but I have been told by a friend that Ristorante La Cantina is a nice family run spot.
Polignano a Mare. Again, great 1/2 day trip to see one of the most amazing bodies of water anywhere. Truly an amazing spot. Walk in the town along all the cliffs for incredible views. Hike down to the main bay for an incredible view from the beach. Walk over to the Monumento a Domenico Modugno famous for his song “Volare”. If you want to eat here I recommend Antiche Mura. The world famous Grotta Palazzese is here (which I would avoid, overpriced but you are paying for the location, food not that great, but again just my opinion).
Parking is a little hard to find in Polignano a Mare but I always park in this lot: Parcheggio a pagamento. It is a 5 minute walk down the hill to the town.
Have a gelato at the world famous Super Mago del Gelo Mario Campanella.
Ostuni, “the white city on the hill”. Incredible spot with an amazing history and amazing views. We always enjoy lunch at Il Post Affianco. I usually park here and walk up to the town. The town as I mentioned is referred to as “The White City on the Hill” so you have to be a little bit of a mountain goat to explore the town. Click here for a live video of Ostuni
Locorotondo at night is an amazing little town. Filled with small trattorias and an amazing view from the main piazza. Great trip at night for the views and gelato. I have not been there during Christmas but I understand it is amazing. Caffè della Villa is a nice place to have a caffè and people watch. The piazza with incredible views of the valley is just across the street from this cafè. I usually park here as parking is a little hard to find. From this lot, which is free, you simply walk up the hill to the town. A few blocks from this parking lot you will find Panificio San Pietro - Locorotondo, a wonderful cheese shop.
Matera has recently become more popular because of the 007 movie filmed there and plus it has an amazing history. The Sassi area of Matera is an area of caves where people lived up to the 1950’s. It is a great place for a guided tour and for hiking. Amazing views of beautiful hills and valleys filled with history. They recently have added some new shops around the main piazza which is a nice addition. A friend of mine stays at the Sextantio le Grotte della Civita and loves it.
Trani is a wonderful fishing town about one hour north of Bari Vecchia. It sits right on the bay and is beautiful. We love going for lunch in Trani and sitting on the bay. Great food and wine can be had at La Banchina. The Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta which sits next to the sea is also beautiful with an amazing underground chapel. If you are traveling from Rome by car to Bari and leave Rome around 8 AM you can arrive in Trani at a perfect time for lunch. I always park here.
Manduria is located south of Bari and a wonderful town. Manduria is considered the birth place of the native Primitivo grape. The place we go is The Museum of Primitivo Wine. A true Primitivo museum. We take our big liter plastic jugs there and they fill them up. Also enjoy a gelato or caffè at Pasticceria Gelateria Bar - Trinacria Specialita’Siciliane.
San Pietro in Bevagna is on the coast further south from Manduria on the Ionian Sea. The beach is beautiful in the summer. Visit Chiesa di San Pietro, a beautiful small church right on the sea. Ask a nun or assistant in the church to take you behind the main altar and down into the place where St Peter actually visited. We like to eat at Corallo ristorante and then have gelato at Pane e Cioccolato.
Further north from Bari is San Giovanni Rotondo, Padre Pio’s church. If you are devoted to Padre Pio or just want to visit his amazing churches you should take a day trip. No tickets needed and we usually park here in this large lot and walk up to the main church: Parking for Padre Pio church
Visit the old and new church, see Padre Pio lying in state and enjoy the incredible view of the valley below.
From San Giovanni you can head to the coast traveling through the beautiful forest of Italy. You can visit the city of Monte Sant’Angelo and the Basilica Santuario di San Michele Arcangelo. It is a beautiful little town known for the basilica and wonderful dolce. The town is famous for Taralli all’Uovo biscotti which you will find in almost every shop. Go to mass in the grotto of the basilica if you have a chance…it is amazing.
Easy parking lot found at the top of the hill: Parking for Monte Sant’Angelo
Towards the coast from Monte Sant’Angelo you will find amazing beaches that I believe are as beautiful as those found in Positano and along the Amalfi coast. Examples are: Spiaggia di Piana di Mattinata, Spiaggia di Punta Rossa, Spiaggia di Lido Macchia, and Spiaggia di Vignanotica. Further north on the coast you will find Vieste which is absolutely beautiful…we like the Hotel Falcone if you decide to spend the night or two. The Pizzomunno of Vieste limestone monolith is in the bay of Vieste and an amazing site. Beautiful beach and a wonderful town.
Further up the coast you will find Foggia and a favorite of ours for lunch and wine which is Al Trabucco da Mimì. It is located on a pier out over the bay. You travel down a dirt road to get there but don’t worry, it is worth it. Wonderful spot and they serve incredible fresh “pesce crudo”.
Now further south of Bari is Lecce. Lecce is more of a “modern” city but does have an older section with two beautiful basilicas worth visiting, Basilica Santa Croce and St Mary of the Assumption. It is also known as the place where Pasticciotti was invented. Pasticiotti is a wonderful pastry filled with cream or crema di pistacchio. We normally stop at Natale Pasticceria but there are many shops with wonderful Pasticiotti.
As you travel Italy you will realize that the little out of the way places where you stop will be the most enchanting and memorable. Everywhere you drive there are treasures. Take the time to visit the locals and the little towns if you can. If you do, you will realize that Italians have truly discovered the way to live and enjoy life.
Enjoy Puglia as it truly is a magical place to visit and explore!
Last updated July 6, 2025